Curiosity struck again. We
briefly joined the international throng filing through the reconstructed
farmhouse and barn at Green Gables in Prince Edward Island
National Park. Truth be
told, we were more interested in what lay beyond the farm’s garden gate: the
11th hole of Green Gables Golf Course, the first of six courses we had decided
to play.
Green Gables is a 6,459-yard
Stanley Thompson design built in 1939 and revamped in the ’80s. It’s a
relatively open routing bordered by mature hardwoods. While the course simply
doesn’t measure up to the newer venues, Green Gables has some memorable holes on
the back nine, where the Lake of Shining Waters comes into play. The signature
16th hole is a lovely 181-yard par 3 that crosses a corner of the lake.
We stopped off at one of the many
village halls offering a feast of fresh local lobster, then spent a balmy
evening at the Charlottetown Driving Park, a harness racing track near the
center of town. Horse racing is a family affair here, with grandfathers and
teenagers competing in spindly-wheeled sulkies while the townsfolk cheer from
the grandstand.
The next morning, a 25-minute
drive took us past bucolic farms with buildings painted in bold Caribbean hues, and equally colorful fishing villages
mirrored in quiet harbors. All commercial signs are small, uniform and
black-and-white, so the view is unsullied.
On the windswept north coast we
found what we’d been looking for: the Links at Crowbush Cove. In 1998, when
Crowbush began appearing on various course rankings, the provincial government
capitalized on the attention and began upgrading government-owned courses and
encouraging private development of new ones. As a result of this effort, the
island’s standing as a golf destination is now soaring.