Tropics to Mountains
Currently, most of the top courses in China are tied to resorts, and many of
those are
located on Hainan
Island. Fifteen miles off
the southern tip of the mainland, Hainan is China's Hawaii, abundant in
luscious mountain scenery,
coffee plantations, ancient culture
and
pristine sand beaches. With nearly a
thousand miles of
coastline and
300 days a year of sunshine, it's no surprise
that dozens of courses
are currently under way in Hainan.
The standard is Yalong Bay, a
Robert Trent Jones Jr. design near the
city of Sanya on the island's southern coast. Like
Sand River,
it's a
course akin to the best of Palm Beach or Palm
Springs,
with broad
fairways, grasping bunkers and a
variety of native
vegetation adding to
the challenge and charm. Small lakes
border over half the holes; many
call for heroic risk/reward
decisions off the
tee and into the green.
On the day I played a gale blew in, with gusts as strong as
any I
had seen in Scotland, but the generous driving areas and open
approaches
to most greens allowed the course to be played as a links,
albeit
without the
same firmness and roll.
Two first-class hotels serve Yalong Bay, one a low-rise tropical design hard
by the course, and the other a new beachfront Sheraton, just across the
street.
After dinner you can head out for some more golf
because, like
Mission Hills,
Yalong
Bay lights up
like Yankee
Stadium.
China has
an even greater diversity of natural beauty than the U.S.,
as I
discovered the next morning. A flight of barely three
hours
transported me from
the equivalents of Maui to
Switzerland, and I went
from
perspiring in 85-degree heat to
having my noon tee time delayed
because the
course had a
dusting of snow.
The ancient city of Lijiang is
in the Yunnan Province of
southwestern China, on the border of Tibet. Sitting
at 10,000
feet in
the foothills of the Himalayas, the Jade Dragon Snow
Mountain course
(pictured
left) is breathtaking, both
scenically and literally. In its
rarefied air, a
golf ball
flies almost 20 percent longer than at sea
level. Nonetheless, it was
a kick to knock my 3-wood second shot onto
the green of the
opening hole, a par
5 of 606 yards. (The back tees
measure
8,548 yards.)
Jade Dragon was designed in 2001 by Haworth, who has
installed
himself in Singapore and with his partner, Nelson, is
producing some of
China's best courses. Both nines
return to the clubhouse at the top of
the property, but
Haworth routed his holes skillfully so that only one hole
plays
straight uphill.
Carts are absolutely mandatory here unless you?re an Ironman
competitor or have Sherpa blood. But if the notion of hitting
300-yard
drives
from elevated tees toward a backdrop of
massive snow-capped
peaks appeals to
you, Jade Dragon is your
ticket.
All that fresh mountain air had left me ravenous, and my
gracious
host had arranged for a special dinner at a local family restaurant in
Lijiang. The locale turned out to be a small apartment, which
Westerners would
characterize charitably as a tenement, where
our party
of eight entered a room
as bleak as a prison cell
and sat on wooden
stools surrounding a steaming
cauldron of
broth into which our chef
deposited numerous unidentifiable
specimens of macerated flora and
fauna. After it had all
simmered a bit, we were
invited to pluck out
the various
bits.
One item-a brownish-maroon colored meat that had been sliced
thinly
and seasoned exquisitely-appealed to me. I scarfed down several pieces
before asking what it was.
"Ah, that is local delicacy," said my host. "Yak."