But plenty of great golf is still available, including Cabo Real and the Desert Course at Cabo del Sol. Of course, most golfers want to play one or both of the courses that likely will stand forever among Nicklaus’ crowning architectural glories: Palmilla and the Ocean Course at Cabo del Sol.

There’s no better way to start a Cabo golf trip than an early-morning round at Palmilla, comprised of the Ocean, Arroyo and Mountain nines. My group was first off the tee on Ocean, and by the time the sun climbed above the horizon across the Sea of Cortez, we were already hitting our drives toward the beach on the beautiful par-4 third.

Soothed by the sound of the surf as we hit our approach shots, I marveled at the long shadows of palm trees stretching toward us and realized that I had once again been blessed by a magic Cabo moment. There have been so many—that sea turtle on the beach at Cabo del Sol’s par-3 17th, the gray whale that breeched off Palmilla point, the 600-pound black marlin that batted my trolled lures into the air like a kid with a new ball. Keep your eyes and your heart open, and Baja will always find a way to touch you.

On this day, the wonder was eventually replaced by a nagging question: How could one place be so beautiful while one’s swing could be so ugly? Which brings up an important piece of advice for playing Cabo’s desert-lined courses: Bring plenty of balls. I can assure you from experience with a wicked cactus called the “Jumping Cholla” that you do not want to brave Baja’s flowering thorn jungle in search of your sideways shots.

However, you don’t have to venture into the desert to learn that this surprisingly fertile environment, which appears from a greater distance to be a desolate brown expanse, is filled with stunning birds and flowers in more varieties than you can count.

At Palmilla, Nicklaus expertly routed three nines through this uniquely beautiful landscape with his longtime trademarks such as double fairways, forced carries and risk-reward opportunities that can make you a hero or a zero—all with ocean views at every turn.

Finishing our round well before noon, my foursome headed down the hill for lunch at the recently renamed One&Only Palmilla, Baja’s premier resort destination. As the competition has improved—check out the posh, Auberge-operated Esperanza, for example—Palmilla has upped the ante by adding more comfort and service.

Built just above the waves on a rocky point, Palmilla offers stunning views from every elegant oceanfront suite, as well as thoughtful little touches like iPod loaners while you sit by the pool.