More than three decades after the fall of Saigon, the Vietnam War is still
foremost in the U.S. psyche, influencing movies, literature and even the most
recent presidential election, in which John Kerry’s war record was a major
issue. But in Vietnam, the “American War” is all but forgotten. With a young
population—the median age of the country’s more than 80 million citizens is
26—Vietnam is looking ahead and is on the rise, with a booming economy and a
peace-loving attitude that ranks it among the six safest travel destinations in
the world. The number of international visitors rose 17 percent last year, drawn
by a region rich in culture, history, food and activities.
Like any country
racing to join the global economy, golf is a major component of Vietnam’s
growth. It has a dozen good tracks and 30 more in the making—not to mention the
upscale resorts, hotels and restaurants Americans expect overseas.
With the
sea all along its eastern flank, fertile deltas sprawling across much of its
interior and a mile-high mountain range running along the western border with
Laos and Cambodia, the topography and climate are surprisingly diverse—as are
the golf courses. The layouts range from Dalat Palace Golf Club, Vietnam’s first
course, to Ocean Dunes Golf Club, a Nick Faldo design that sits along the South
China Sea.
Most travelers’ point of entry is Ho Chi Minh City, which everyone
still calls Saigon. Golfers arriving in-country usually begin with Vietnam
Golf & Country Club on the outskirts of Saigon, where all the expats and
visiting businessmen play. Carved from a former cashew plantation, the 36-hole
venue is relatively flat with aggressive bunkering protecting large, tiered
greens. Our caddies pointed out a pond that began as a bomb crater, as well as a
spot where someone had recently killed a cobra and taken it home for dinner.
Snake is good for a backache, we were told. It is also a great incentive to stay
out of the rough.
When I chipped in for a birdie on one hole, my caddie
clapped lightly and trilled a laugh as soft as birdsong. My game gave her scant
cause for celebration, but she remained hopeful as she earnestly proffered clubs
and directed my putts. She spoke little English, but it didn’t matter. Golf is a
universal language and she was good at it.
Female caddies are de rigueur in
Vietnam and Cambodia, as they are in most of Asia. Our caddies were swathed
head-to-toe in uniforms and cone-shaped hats to protect themselves from the sun.
Tanned skin in this part of the world is the mark of a field hand.
