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A road trip along California Highway 1 in search of great golf, unique sights and some of the most spectacular scenery in the world

It's approaching high noon, and it’s clear that the upcoming duel will be severely one-sided. It’s me against U.S. Open host Torrey Pines South, and a couple of minutes before my 12:00 p.m. tee time, the starter says the rough is a healthy five inches and even locating balls is problematic. “If you can’t find it,” he says, “no problem. Just drop one—no penalty.” The rough did leave me feeling as though I were wielding a bag full of pea shooters. Hacking the ball 100 yards up the hole was a feat—I had never played a course with such a punitive setup. And the U.S. Open was still three months away, plenty of time for the U.S. Golf Association to continue to arm the 7,607-yard layout.

Despite the difficulty, the appeal of playing a U.S. Open course has packed the tee sheet. It has lured customers like John and Bev from Pennsylvania. They had driven by several times on previous trips before deciding to play because of the U.S. Open.

But the rough made for some ridiculous scenes. Bev’s ball of choice was a Precept—in both pink and yellow. On the par-5 9th, she teed off with a pink model, which she pulled into the rough. She couldn’t find it, so she dropped a yellow one. She eventually holed out with the same-color ball she started with, but had to switch colors three times in between.

There were other muni-golf scenes you won’t find at the Open. From my room at the Lodge at Torrey Pines next to the 18th green, I watched several groups finishing. At least one player from each foursome hit into the pond guarding the green. And nearly every one of them went after it with a ball retriever. That just doesn’t happen at a place like Shinnecock Hills.

A ball retriever is a quintessentially muni accessory, and I applaud the USGA for awarding the Open to Torrey. The act is almost enough to excuse the rough.

Almost.

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