Vail Valley afternoons offer great fly-fishing on
Gore Creek and the
Eagle and Colorado Rivers, but if you’d prefer to continue
stalking
birdies instead of trout, check out Eagle-Vail Golf Club. I’ve always
loved the bombs-away par-3 10th here—its tee sits so high, the green
appears to
be shell-shocked from all the high-altitude assaults. By
this time you will
surely deserve a sports massage at the Sonnenalp
Spa, followed by a hot-tub soak
and a strawberry-mango smoothie at the
juice bar (perhaps with a healthy splash
of Grey Goose).
Next, I suggest you find accommodations in the
quaint alpine village
at Beaver Creek Resort and take a spin around Beaver Creek
Golf Club.
This Robert Trent Jones Jr. design showcases the namesake creek,
expansive views of area ski slopes and slender (bordering on anorexic)
fairways.
The par-4 14th is a typically skinny swath of grass between
groves of aspens,
with a picturesque old cabin as a backdrop.
Beaver Creek is not so severe a test that you can’t
ably tackle the
newish and sparsely sublime Arnold Palmer Signature track at
Eagle
Ranch the same day. Nearly treeless and relatively flat (“mountain golf at
its level best,” quippeth the King), the course is framed by tall
native grasses
and seemingly afloat in water hazards where it’s not
adrift in sand. It rarely
offers a flat lie, thus earning its lusty 141
slope.
If you’re looking for a top-shelf stay-and-play
spot, you can’t beat
the quiet, European-style Lodge & Spa at Cordillera and
its four
acclaimed courses. The hypoxic Jack Nicklaus Summit Course was built at
such high altitude (9,000 feet), it doesn’t even open for the season
until
mid-June. This beauty is big, playable and grandly over-reaching,
ranging from
gape-mouthed, ridge-topping rippers (the par-5 eighth) to
gulch-hugging downhill
prayers (No. 12, a par-4). The requisite
forecaddie is a dire necessity—mine was
a 6-handicap local kid who
saved me a dozen strokes.
After this mountain experience, give yourself a
breather and bat a
few balls around the Dave Pelz Short Course. Then try Hale
Irwin’s
Mountain Course the next day. This rollicking, 141-slope test left me
muttering about my ride but still grateful for the trip. The perfect
greens are
windshield fast and every hole is smart and pretty,
including a
brutal-but-scenic downhill cascade through a forest at the
third, and a big
carry over wetland willows to a blind landing at No.
11. And so it goes
throughout, beauty and pain alternating like an
expensive
catechism.
You can mull this lesson on the drive to Keystone
Resort for your
last two nights. Here, the Ranch Course’s links-style front is
highlighted by the third, fourth and fifth turning out across a broad
meadow
framed by the big peaks of aptly named Summit County. A
beautiful abandoned homestead
makes No. 5 feel like it runs through a
ghost town. The back nine arcs
gracefully across pine-laden hillsides
and valleys, closing with a short par-5
beside a long lake.
The River Course, centered around the bustling
Snake River and laced
through thick woods, is
the resort’s showier layout. It starts with a
skyscraping drive on the “oh, wow”
first, where your tee shot plunges
100 feet to a roomy fairway bounded by sand
and trees and backed by the
Continental Divide. Another monster drop, this one
some 200 feet, comes
at the popular par-4 16th hole.
Keystone guests should
also consider a high-mountain horseback ride,
followed by loin of high-country
venison and green-chile polenta at the
AAA Four Diamond-rated Keystone Ranch
restaurant. Sure, it’s a full
schedule. But here in the Vail Valley, it’s the only way—there’s simply
too much you don’t want to miss.