By
Jay Cowan
Skiing and golf go hand-in-hand at resorts around
the world, but probably nowhere more so than in Colorado’s spectacular Vail Valley. Here, a stretch of Interstate 70
less than 40 miles long passes by two of the world’s great ski resorts, Vail and
Beaver Creek, and a dozen first-rate golf courses. The only real drawback here
is scheduling: How do you squeeze in as much activity as possible on one
vacation?
Two fine spots to bed down while pondering that
question are the Lodge at Vail and the Ritz-Carlton at Bachelor Gulch, both of
which grant you access to two of the area’s newest private courses at Red Sky
Golf Club. But since Red Sky is a half-hour’s drive away, better to relax and
get acclimated at nearby Vail Golf Club. The oldest course in the valley, it’s
shoehorned between I-70, Gore Creek and the towering peaks of the Gore Range. Yes, it’s a little tight, but it’s
well-maintained, and really, you’re unlikely to yank one straight onto the
highway, as I once did.
In the morning, play the Red Sky course du jour,
which rotates daily between Tom Fazio and Greg Norman tracks carved out of the
rocky knolls and pastures of an historic sheep ranch, with high-definition
mountain vistas in every direction. The dramatic first hole sets the tone for a
wide-open front nine on the Fazio—it bends and descends past scattered juniper
and sagebrush to a green as expansive and contoured as the views beyond. The
back side climbs into a forest of aspens, where No. 16 showcases all the
dramatic elements of the course on a 505-yard tumble out of the timber into long
panoramas and onto another huge, rolling green.
Afterward, be sure to check out Vail must-stops
such as the elegant Gorsuch Sports, and Pepi’s restaurant at Hotel Gasthof
Gramshammer (try the wiener schnitzel), followed by a gondola ride to Adventure
Ridge and the kind of rare air that inspires thoughts of greatness. Later you’ll
want to feast like a ravenous king, and there’s no place better than the Lodge
at Vail’s Wildflower restaurant, where the vanilla-spiced, mango-chutney crab
cakes and pecan-crusted venison are superb.
Now you’re properly primed for a round at the
infamous Norman Course at Red Sky, a slinky, 7,580-yard monster with a daunting
144 slope. With fearsome holes like the 283-yard, par-3 16th, five sets of tees
are necessary. Alas, that’s of little help on the par-5 fourth, which has a
narrow, nigh-unhittable fairway infested by a pox of white sand bunkers that
look like impassable snowdrifts. With the sounds of hawk cries echoing off the
hillsides, and the sight of deer and elk foraging along the big ridge that
separates the Norman and Fazio courses, you’ll feel like Lewis and Clark of the
links.
Depending on your glutton-for-punishment index, you
may choose to either re-center your chakras while whitewater rafting in the
afternoon or restore your swing at nearby Cotton Ranch. I like the hillside full
of scrub oak and juniper at the heart of this Pete Dye layout, which includes a
ravine-straddling dogleg par-4 and a big-air par-3.
For dinner, think pumpkin seed-crusted salmon at
Larkspur, once called “perhaps the best restaurant in the Vail Valley” by Wine Spectator. The next
morning, consider a move to Sonnenalp Resort of Vail and a round at the
affiliated Sonnenalp Golf Club, located 13 miles to the west in Edwards. Mature
trees present some real problems here, as do a few bunkers, creeks and ponds,
and many greens are heavily tiered. The back nine takes you up into the hills,
where views open onto gleaming peaks to the south, and holes such as the
short-but-steep 12th turn treacherous.
Vail Valley afternoons offer great fly-fishing on
Gore Creek and the
Eagle and Colorado Rivers, but if you’d prefer to continue
stalking
birdies instead of trout, check out Eagle-Vail Golf Club. I’ve always
loved the bombs-away par-3 10th here—its tee sits so high, the green
appears to
be shell-shocked from all the high-altitude assaults. By
this time you will
surely deserve a sports massage at the Sonnenalp
Spa, followed by a hot-tub soak
and a strawberry-mango smoothie at the
juice bar (perhaps with a healthy splash
of Grey Goose).
Next, I suggest you find accommodations in the
quaint alpine village
at Beaver Creek Resort and take a spin around Beaver Creek
Golf Club.
This Robert Trent Jones Jr. design showcases the namesake creek,
expansive views of area ski slopes and slender (bordering on anorexic)
fairways.
The par-4 14th is a typically skinny swath of grass between
groves of aspens,
with a picturesque old cabin as a backdrop.
Beaver Creek is not so severe a test that you can’t
ably tackle the
newish and sparsely sublime Arnold Palmer Signature track at
Eagle
Ranch the same day. Nearly treeless and relatively flat (“mountain golf at
its level best,” quippeth the King), the course is framed by tall
native grasses
and seemingly afloat in water hazards where it’s not
adrift in sand. It rarely
offers a flat lie, thus earning its lusty 141
slope.
If you’re looking for a top-shelf stay-and-play
spot, you can’t beat
the quiet, European-style Lodge & Spa at Cordillera and
its four
acclaimed courses. The hypoxic Jack Nicklaus Summit Course was built at
such high altitude (9,000 feet), it doesn’t even open for the season
until
mid-June. This beauty is big, playable and grandly over-reaching,
ranging from
gape-mouthed, ridge-topping rippers (the par-5 eighth) to
gulch-hugging downhill
prayers (No. 12, a par-4). The requisite
forecaddie is a dire necessity—mine was
a 6-handicap local kid who
saved me a dozen strokes.
After this mountain experience, give yourself a
breather and bat a
few balls around the Dave Pelz Short Course. Then try Hale
Irwin’s
Mountain Course the next day. This rollicking, 141-slope test left me
muttering about my ride but still grateful for the trip. The perfect
greens are
windshield fast and every hole is smart and pretty,
including a
brutal-but-scenic downhill cascade through a forest at the
third, and a big
carry over wetland willows to a blind landing at No.
11. And so it goes
throughout, beauty and pain alternating like an
expensive
catechism.
You can mull this lesson on the drive to Keystone
Resort for your
last two nights. Here, the Ranch Course’s links-style front is
highlighted by the third, fourth and fifth turning out across a broad
meadow
framed by the big peaks of aptly named Summit County. A
beautiful abandoned homestead
makes No. 5 feel like it runs through a
ghost town. The back nine arcs
gracefully across pine-laden hillsides
and valleys, closing with a short par-5
beside a long lake.
The River Course, centered around the bustling
Snake River and laced
through thick woods, is
the resort’s showier layout. It starts with a
skyscraping drive on the “oh, wow”
first, where your tee shot plunges
100 feet to a roomy fairway bounded by sand
and trees and backed by the
Continental Divide. Another monster drop, this one
some 200 feet, comes
at the popular par-4 16th hole.
Keystone guests should
also consider a high-mountain horseback ride,
followed by loin of high-country
venison and green-chile polenta at the
AAA Four Diamond-rated Keystone Ranch
restaurant. Sure, it’s a full
schedule. But here in the Vail Valley, it’s the only way—there’s simply
too much you don’t want to miss.
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