Part raffish, part Ritz-y, the
waterfront world of Amelia Island, Fla., offers a bounty of soul-stirring
golf.
I know an almost perfect golf spot
on Amelia Island. You can pause there between oak
hammocks and tumultuous shoreline, hearing a dense woodland hush in one ear and
the sea’s quiet roar in the other. Our game is full of blessed spots like
this—points on the landscape that rumble a golfer’s soul. I linger in this
pleasing nook between No. 3 green and No. 4 tee at Amelia Island Plantation’s
Ocean Links course, aware that over the dune crest a pounding surf and Atlantic
winds dutifully carve and shave the beachfront.
This
barrier island, measuring 13 miles north to south, lies just below the
Georgia border some 20 miles
up from Jacksonville. Amelia’s history is marked by
alternating periods of prosperity and privation. Its economy is split between
traditional industries on the island’s west side and recreational beaches along
the east, likewise between the quaint commerce of Fernandina Beach to the north and the grand resort
presence at the south end.
In 1974 Amelia Island Plantation
helped transform this place from a sleepy regional getaway into a premier
golf-and-recreation destination. Today the resort is a 1,300-acre compound with
more than 660 guest rooms (including 249 in the oceanfront Inn & Beach
Club), eight restaurants, a spa, shopping, a market, labyrinthine walking paths
and three 18-hole golf courses.
Pete Dye crafted the original 27
holes, discovering three routings that drift from inland forest seclusion to
open scenes of shoreline and marsh. The two nines that climax with expansive
Intracoastal Waterway views are today played as
the Oak Marsh course. The third nine was extended to 18 holes and renamed Ocean
Links in 1998.
The land used for that latter
project had to be gathered up piecemeal, using several pods of real estate
scattered throughout the property. Fortunately those parcels included some
stunning seafront acreage that allowed the architect, Bobby Weed, to build two
of the most provocative ocean holes in the South—the majestic par-3 15th and
par-4 16th—giving Ocean Links an unbeatable five holes directly on the Atlantic
(the middle holes on the front nine round out that quintet). Greens and tees for
these holes aren’t merely next to the coastal dunes—they are the dunes. Weed
also renovated the remaining Dye holes (including Oak Marsh), infusing these
relatively short courses with putting surfaces of three-dimensional
nuance.
Tom Fazio’s Long Point Golf Club
opened in 1987 with its own set of watery adventures, including the graceful
par-4 second along the edge of the marsh and the bounding par-4 12th, which
creases another broad inlet. Back-to-back oceanside par-3s at 15 and 16 are spectacular,
even set as they are slightly below dune level. A renovation project in 2003
vaulted Long Point into the elite of pristinely conditioned
courses.