Once upon a time, Hawaii was a place of secluded beaches, unspoiled nature,
small towns and laid-back, smiling locals living at a languid pace. On most of
the other islands, massive development and numerous visitors have obliterated
these traits.
Yet classic Hawaiian ambiance still thrives on Lanai, and
whether you want a beach completely to yourself or to wander the streets of a
“city” just three blocks long and comprised of craft shops, cafes and
restaurants so casual that you don’t need shoes, Lanai is the place. And be
sure to bring your clubs, along with a need to be pampered. Because this
140-square-mile island is home to two Four Seasons resorts, Manele Bay and the
Lodge at Koele, which have just undergone a $100 million renovation.
Hospitality—luxury lodging, dining and world-class sporting facilities,
including courses by Jack Nicklaus and Greg Norman—has replaced pineapples
as the island’s main product.Known as the “Pineapple Island,” Lanai used
to grow 75 percent of the world’s supply of the fruit. Today the sweet crop is
limited to a handful of plants in the hotel gardens for use by Four Seasons’
chefs. The sense of isolation and serenity provided by both the resort and the
island itself, with a population of 3,000, will make visitors understand
immediately how the island has earned its more recent nickname, the “Private
Island.”
Visitors to Hawaii are always faced with a tough choice of how many
islands to visit, since each has its own unique character and charms, but every
stop comes with another tedious trip to the airport and another flight. In
this sense, Lanai offers a two-for-one bonus, since the distinct experiences at
the resorts that are seven miles apart offer an easy island-hopping experience,
both on and off the courses. Both hotels offer their guests privileges at all
the combined facilities, but each is so different in feel that many find the
smartest choice is not to choose but rather split their stay between the coast
and mountains.
The Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay is for beach lovers, set
above a vast and brilliant white sand beach on Hulopoe Bay, with views across
the channel to the islands of Maui and Kahoolawe. The larger of the two
properties, it is still small by Hawaiian resort standards with just 235 rooms,
each newly decorated with a tropical East Asian flair, using Japanese, Chinese
and local gardening techniques. Guests open their doors to the sounds and smells
of waterfalls, ponds teeming with koi, tropical flowers and sculptures.
The
main building overlooks a pool, which in turn overlooks the beach; both are
outfitted with attendants and teak chaise lounges. The clubhouse for the
Nicklaus-designed Challenge at Manele sits a stone’s throw from the hotel, and
the layout claims the most oceanfront exposure of any layout in a state known
for its oceanfront exposure. The smell of salt air and winds from the ocean are
apparent immediately, and actual Pacific views start on the 2nd tee as the first
few holes climb quickly to the course’s high point on the 5th, from which Maui,
Kahoolawe and sometimes even the Big Island complete the panorama.
Each hole
has seemingly more impressive views than the last, and between the distracting
beauty, constant wind and exposed black lava, the Challenge lives up to its
daunting moniker, especially at the 12th, which stretches 202 yards—all carry
across an ocean inlet—to a green that sits 150 feet below the tee. Like at many
holes at Manele, hitting a ball into the Pacific offers a silver lining: the
opportunity to see spinner dolphins and occasionally humpback whales as you
follow the long descent of your errant shot to the crashing surf. As part of the
recent renovation, the resort has removed numerous trees to open up even more
impressive views of the ocean.
