Links Magazine | The Best Of Golf

Lanai continued...

Just 15 minutes inland, the Four Seasons Lanai Lodge at Koele feels a world apart. Like all the islands in Hawaii, Lanai is volcanic, with a high, mountainous center sloping to the sea in all directions. While Manele lies at one of the island’s lowest points, the Lodge occupies one of the highest spots and enjoys a remarkably different ecosystem, with temperatures that are 10–15 degrees cooler. The Lodge is surrounded by tall Norfolk pines and is often shrouded in fog, giving it an air of mystery.

Hawaii means sun and surf for most, and not all visitors appreciate the very different experience of the inland mountains. But in many ways the Lodge is even more charming than Manele Bay. It has just 102 rooms, contained in a single building connected by a short breezeway to the main lodge, which has the look and feel of a grand English estate and manor house of a bygone century, with comfortably clubby common areas adorned with overstuffed leather furniture and extensive grounds with formal gardens.

Even the menu at the Dining Room, the most formal eatery on the island, reflects its distinct setting, foregoing the standard list of Hawaiian fish for venison (though still local and Macadamia-nut crusted), duck, quail and lamb. After a complete renovation and the hiring of a new chef, Four Seasons has set the lofty goal of establishing the Dining Room as the best restaurant in all Hawaii.

The upcountry Lodge offers croquet, equestrian center, hiking trails and one of the island’s highlights, a tournament-quality sporting clays facility with 14 stations carved out of the jungle. Whether you are a marksman or have never fired a shotgun, this is one of the top non-golf experiences at a golf resort anywhere.

But you are there for the Experience at Koele, a collaboration between Ted Robinson Jr. and Norman—it was the Shark’s first foray into design work. What the course lacks in sea views, it makes up for with dramatic elevation changes, lakes, waterfalls and thick tropical foliage. Its low point is 2,000 feet above sea level, and its unique microclimate makes it one of just three courses in Hawaii with bentgrass greens. The Experience claims the most dramatic hole on Lanai, the par-4 17th, played from a cliff-like tee box to a fairway some 25 stories below, with the entire hole set in a deep, narrow gorge.

Now that the Pineapple Island has evolved into the Private Island, it may have become more difficult to decide where to go for a Hawaiian golf vacation. If you’re looking for a destination without luaus, shopping malls, souvenir stands or crowds, chances are you’ll find your way to Lanai.