Step outside Charleston Place and the city lies before you. The Old Market is literally steps away, its open-air brick buildings thronged with tourists in search of Lowcountry keepsakes, such as handwoven sweetgrass baskets made on-site by local Gullah women. On the cobblestone streets, horses clip-clop along as they pull carriages past lovely residences hemmed in by wrought-iron fences and nearly hidden among palm trees, live oaks and magnolias. The skyline is dotted with church spires and steeples. At the tip of the Battery, lined by fabulous homes that once belonged to wealthy rice planters, gun emplacements overlook Charleston Harbor and Fort Sumter.

In this city that drips with beauty and history, you can’t stroll far without coming face-to-face with reminders that Charleston’s past contains equal parts glory and tragedy. That includes the recent past—1989, to be exact—when the area took a direct hit from Hurricane Hugo. The Isle of Palms, located only 20 minutes from downtown, was hit particularly hard, but it’s still a popular getaway for Charlestonians. Wild Dunes Resort, located on the northern end of the Isle of Palms, is a fine choice—it has a complete array of activities, including terrific beaches, outstanding tennis and 36 holes of superb Tom Fazio-designed golf.

Hugo sheared off scores of trees, rendering Wild Dunes, well, not quite as wild. Still, the Harbor course, situated along the Intracoastal Waterway, is a sporty way to spend four hours, and the Links is even better—in fact, it’s my choice for the perfect resort layout, thanks to its variety, challenge and scenery. The Links was the course that vaulted Fazio to the upper echelon of golf architects after he blended elements of marshland, maritime forest, ocean frontage and dunes into a series of memorable holes. The finishing stretch along the ocean is unforgettable, but there is some fine inland golf here as well, including the par-3 12th, a wee devil of a hole with a green that is all but hidden in a sea of beach grass.

The resort has settled comfortably into its role as a destination for family vacations. It has a friendly, community-oriented feeling—everywhere you look, someone is jogging, riding a bike, playing tennis or splashing in the surf. Visitors can rent villas or houses, or stay at a comfy hotel, the Boardwalk Inn, with a spa and restaurants close at hand. The resort is so compact and thoughtfully laid out that it’s possible to spend days without ever getting into a car.

Don’t get too comfortable, however—you’ll definitely want to get behind the wheel for a foray into town or a leisurely drive down Bohicket Road.