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Almost a century before it would become famous as the hometown of
Larry Bird, French Lick, Indiana was an internationally acclaimed resort
destination, with travelers coming from all over the world to enjoy the comforts
and healing spring waters of the French Lick Resort and Casino
(FrenchLick.com, 888-MY-HIDEAWAY). Rockefellers have stayed here, as have
Vanderbilts. Franklin D. Roosevelt enjoyed French Lick, as did Louis Armstrong
and Bing Crosby. Thanks to a jaw-dropping $382 million renovation—including a
meticulous restoration of the resort’s Donald Ross Course in conjunction with
The Donald Ross Society—French Lick’s glory days have returned. The Ross Course
(which hosted the 1924 PGA Championship) may now be the most authentic example
of the great designer’s work: 35 original bunkers have been restored—complete
with the Ross-styled deep faces and flat bottom surfaces—and the greens have
been expanded to their original shapes. Design buffs can play the course at its
original length from the Ross Tees, while those wanting an even stiffer
challenge can head back to the Medal Tees, which stretch the course to more than
7,000 yards. A new chapter to French Lick’s golf history is currently being
written, with a Pete Dye design set to open in 2009, which will offer
spectacular views of southern Indiana’s gently rolling hills. Guests at French Lick can choose from one of two historic
hotels—French Lick Springs or West Baden Springs. In addition to golf, you can
enjoy Vegas-style gaming in the 84,000-square-foot casino, fishing, boating,
horseback riding, bowling or you can relax at the spa, where you can still enjoy
the healing waters of the Pluto Mineral Spring that first drew visitors to the
resort. You’ll find more than a dozen different dining options at French Lick,
including the resort’s signature 1875 Steakhouse. In the northern part of the state, Swan Lake Golf Resort
(SLResort.com, 574-935-5680) is the perfect destination for the golfer who
is serious about his game. Swan Lake is home to one of the country’s most
acclaimed—and longest-running—golf schools. The United States Golf Academy has
been introducing beginners to the game—as well as honing the games of
professionals—since 1971. And although the school has been in operation for 37
years, the facilities and teaching methods are state-of-the-art. Your full swing
will benefit from computerized ballflight and swing analysis systems, while your
putting mechanics will be refined with PuttLab, which uses ultrasound to measure
and assess your stroke. Both indoor and outdoor practice facilities are
available, as is a five-hole practice course. And if your new swing is worthy of
new sticks, you can take advantage of one of the game’s most thorough
club-fitting systems to ensure you find the perfect set to complement your swing
dynamics. When it’s time to take your game to the course, you’ll have two
courses from which to choose at the resort’s Indiana National Golf Club. The
East Course is the tougher test of the two, and has hosted a variety of
collegiate and Indiana amateur events. It’s not exceptionally long—playing to
less than 7,000 yards from the tips—but with water in play on no less than 14
holes, you’ll need to control your golf ball to score. The West Course is fun and scenic. It’s no pushover, but wider
fairways and larger greens make the course more forgiving than the East. The
courses are a great value, as well, with green fees of $52 on weekdays and $60
on the weekends. You can opt for a deluxe room or suite in the main building and
cottages are available, too. But we suggest you rent one of the four log cabins
(which sleep 10) located in secluded, wooded areas on the property.
Dust off your little black book of golf contacts and leverage
every angle to score a round at the private Canyata Golf Club (Canyata.com,
217-826-9500) in Marshall, Illinois. Owner Gerald Forsythe originally
intended to build only three holes (a par-3, a par-4 and a par-5) for the use of
friends and family. However, it soon became apparent to Forsythe and course
architect Michael Benkusky that the land had the potential to yield a word-class
design. Benkusky benefitted from a varied landscape that contains mature
woods and wide, lush meadows bisected by streams and rocky ravines. This
distinctive property led to a course that—amazingly—can be reminiscent of a true
Scottish links at times and evocative of Pinehurst at others. Wide fairways (they average more than 50 yards across) and
7,000-square-foot greens make Canyata somewhat forgiving for average players,
but to score well, one must hit precise targets to set up ideal playing
angles. You won’t have much time to ease into your round here. The ravines
first come into play on the 583-yard, par-5 second hole. You’ll face a difficult
tee shot with a forced carry (over a ravine) of 175 yards. A huge swale in the
green will have you thinking of the famed ninth at C.B. MacDonald’s Yale Golf
Club. And good luck choosing a club at the 221-yard par-3 third, which plays 40
yards downhill into the prevailing wind. These holes—as well as No. 12, a par-3 which plays almost 250
yards across a dramatic, fescue-covered chasm—are in stark contrast to others
(Nos. 7, 8, 11 and 16 are examples) which are laid out over wind-strewn plains.
As at Cypress Point, the golfer is treated to a variety of natural settings with
enhances the overall experience. If you happen to come across Mr. Forsythe, make sure to offer a
friendly handshake. Membership comes only at Mr. Forsythe’s invitation.
Across the state in Galena, you’ll find the Eagle Ridge Resort
and Spa (EagleRidgeResortOnline.com, 800-892-2269), set on more than 6,800
rolling, wooded acres. Variety is the name of the game at Eagle Ridge, from the
accommodations to the activities and the golf itself. First, the accommodations: You have the choice of staying at the
charming Inn near Lake Galena. The Inn is convenient to the Stonedrift Spa and a
number of dining options. Villas and townhomes are also available, with one, two
or three bedrooms. Finally, you can reserve one of the Eagle Ridge Distinctive
Homes—three, four, five and six-plus bedroom homes are available. As for activities, you can spend your time on land (playing golf
at one of the four courses on property), on the water (on the 228-acre Lake
Geneva) or in the air (hot-air ballooning is a favorite activity). Now to the golf itself. The North Course is relatively open, with
long vistas, rolling fairways and large greens. The South traverses a wooded
valley, with a stream coming into play on 11 holes. The East is characterized by
elevated tee shots to narrow fairways, while The General is Eagle Ridge’s
strongest design. Roger Packard and Andy North were the architects of The
General, which occupies the most commanding location on the property. Nos. 9, 14
and 18 are highlights. The ninth requires a tee shot carrying a gorgeous
wildflower ravine with the distinctive silo at the clubhouse as an aiming point.
The tee at 14 offers the most spectacular view on the course while options
abound at the par-5 finisher, which has a split, two-tiered fairway and a
dramatically undulating green. If you’re not going for the green in two, favor
the right side of the fairway to set up the best angle into the green for your
approach.
A few hours’ drive northwest finds you in Minnesota’s Brainerd
Lakes region. Brainerd has long been a Midwestern golf mecca and Madden’s at
Gull Lake (Maddens.com, 218-829-2811) has been a Brainerd centerpiece resort
for almost 80 years. Occupying more than 1,000 drop-dead beautiful acres on Gull
Lake’s Pine Beach Peninsula (including a full mile of sandy coastline), Madden’s
is the quintessential, classic Midwestern resort—not surprisingly, it’s been
named one of the Historic Hotels of America. It’s hard to believe, but the golf actually pre-dates this
80-year-old resort. The first golf course on the property was built in 1909—one
of Minnesota’s first tracks. And Pine Beach East, built in 1926, was the state’s
first 18-hole resort course. You can still play it today, along with two other
18-hole courses and a 9-holer. Like many of the game’s oldest courses, the East
is a charmer with some eccentricities (including a 618-yard par-6 hole—now
there’s something you don’t see every day). It’s a blast to play. The
Pine Beach West course is of executive-course length (just 5,000 yards), but it
boasts a couple of the best holes in this golf-rich region. The Classic at
Madden’s is the resort’s crown jewel. Many believe it’s the finest public course
in Minnesota. Giant red oaks with maple understory line the fairways, which
sweep dramatically over knolls—The Classic is blessed with near-perfect golf
terrain. Off the course, you can enjoy the full range of watersports on the
lake, in addition to biking and tennis. You’ll find manicured, USCA-sanctioned
croquette lawns, lawn bowling and even a full-time naturalist for guided nature
hikes. Trapshooting has been a Madden’s activity of choice for decades. Panache
is Madden’s lakeside spa—enjoy a hot stone message before dining at one of the
resort’s five restaurant options.
Across the border in tiny Erin, Wisconsin—about 35 miles northwest
of Milwaukee—you’ll find Erin Hills Golf Course (ErinHills.com,
866-724-8822). Put simply, to play Erin Hills is one of the great
experiences in American golf. Like Pacific Dunes, Sand Hills and Shinnecock,
it’s rugged American linksland—a true rarity and an absolute joy to play. It’s
the sort of place romantics go to commune with the soul of golf. But Erin Hills is far more than romance and ambience. The golf is
outstanding, as well. How good is it? Just beginning its second full year of
operation, it already has been awarded the 2011 U.S. Amateur. It was also
awarded the 2008 U.S. Women’s Amateur Public Links—before the course had even
opened! Do not be surprised if the U.S. Open pays a visit to Erin Hills in the
next 10 years. Designed by Michael Hurdzan, Dana Fry and Ron Whitten, Erin Hills
opened in 2006 to immediate acclaim. The native grasses, knolls and rugged
bunkering puts one in mind of an Irish links. You’ll encounter charming quirks
like back-to-back par-3s and blind (but fair) shots. No houses intrude on the
experience; you won’t spot any power lines. It’s pure golf at its best. Pure—and a stern test. The course plays 7,824 from the tips and is
sloped at 141. (Should the Open be contested over Erin Hills, the world’s best
players could be facing an 8,200-yard beast!) Just be sure to play from the
correct set of tees for your ability level and take—and listen to—one of the
course’s fine caddies. The nearby Delafield Hotel is a casually elegant inn—a perfect
complement to the experience. The only better option is one of the seven
guestrooms in the Erin Hills clubhouse, designed in the manner of an Irish
country inn. The pub on property also reflects the Irish influence—and is the
perfect setting to relax, post round.
Devil’s Head Resort (DevilsHeadResort.com, 800-472-6670) is
located in south central Wisconsin—convenient to Chicago, Milwaukee and Madison.
Art Johnson designed the golf at Devil’s Head. (The original course at Devil’s
Head—designed in 1970—was split in 2004 and combined with two additional
nines—built in 1999 and 2004—to create the two courses now known as the Glacier
Course and Prairie Glen. You would never suspect that the nines were designed
decades apart—the routings are seamless.) Glacier is the shorter and tighter of the two courses, and
features dramatic elevation changes, rock outcroppings and spectacular views.
Prairie Glen is well bunkered and features an incredible diversity of holes:
you’ll encounter everything from links-like holes to island greens. Like
Glacier, Prairie Dunes has lots of elevation change, including a par-3 hole with
a green beckoning from 120 feet below the tee. Both are tree-lined and blessed
with jaw-dropping scenery. Keep your eyes open and your camera at the
ready—wildlife encounters are commonplace on the golf courses. And after the
round is complete, be sure to head over to the Devil’s Den for a libation—it’s a
terrific 19th hole. A popular snowboarding and downhill and cross-country ski
destination in the winter, Devil’s Head has superb mountain biking, road biking
and hiking in warmer months. Lodge rooms and suites are available, as are
condominiums which sleep up to eight guests. (Should you fall in love with
Devil’s Head while staying in a condominium, you’ll be happy to learn that
condos are available for purchase, as well.) Be sure to check out the variety of golf packages that are a real
value for the hard-core golfer, combining lodging, dining and unlimited play on
both courses.
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